Description
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Movement: Self Winding/Automatic complication designed and customized exclusively for Brillier by a Master Watch Maker of repute. The movement is built overseas and is made with select components of varied origin from Japan, Swiss, China and India.
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Number of jewels : 20
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Dual time zone
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Center Big Seconds Hand
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Date Indicator at 3H,
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Frequency 21,600 bph
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Power Reserve 36 hrs
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Dial: White or Black
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Markers: Steel stick markers matching case coloring
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Hands: Flat steel matching case coloring
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Case: Round 38 mm, Dial opening: 34 mm, Case Thickness: 12 mm, Lug Width: 20 mm
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Crystal: Genuine Sapphire with anti reflective coating
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Strap: Genuine Leather Strap
Robert Reyes –
I’ve always had a soft spot for GMT watches, and I’ve been on the hunt for a dual-register complication to complement my collection. The Brillier GMT Dual Time caught my eye with its vintage-inspired styling, compact yet substantial 38mm case, and distinctive charm that sets it apart from the usual offerings. And it happened to be well below half-off from current pricing on the site! I also didn’t find much on Reddit, watch publications, or any reviews on this watch aside from an introductory video by Marc from Long Island Watch, so I figured I would do a writeup myself.
The watch features a stainless steel case with a full high-polish finish, lending it a dressy and refined appearance. Measuring 38mm in diameter with a 34mm dial aperture, it sits confidently on the wrist without overpowering it. At 12mm thick, it does have some presence, but the proportions remain balanced, thanks in part to the case design sitting low on the wrist, and beautiful double-domed sapphire crystal (albeit with minimal anti-reflective coating) creating a rounded look from the profile.
The dial is a clean, legible black with white printing and silver markers, showcasing a classic aesthetic. The 3 o’clock date window and text on either side of the seconds hand pinion balance the overall design. The crown is a lovely onion-style piece adorned with a blue cabochon, adding a subtle pop of color and elegance.
The dial layout is where this watch truly stands out: a GMT sub-dial at 12 o’clock with Arabic numerals, and a local time sub-dial at 6 o’clock using Roman numerals. This dual-register layout creates an old-world charm, reinforcing the vintage feel. Despite the small case size, the watch has a surprising heft, giving it a reassuring presence on the wrist. It’s worth noting that this is a limited edition, and I was lucky enough to snag number 50/50—pretty cool for a collector’s piece!
Brillier has equipped this watch with a custom movement that appears to be partly based on a Seiko NH movement. The telltale sign is the single-piece click spring visible under the winding wheel—classic NH architecture. However, the bridges don’t match anything I’ve seen in most standard movements. It would be nice if Brillier noted what the movement caliber is, and any modifications or modules added to create the custom piece. Transparency, folks! We want to know what this watch is all about, after all.
The movement beats at 3Hz (21,600 bph) and offers a claimed 36-hour power reserve. In my experience, the seconds hand has a standard smooth sweep, and winding feels robust (almost Swiss-like) and reassuring, and not at all like the softer, easier (almost loose?) Japanese winding.
As a frequent traveler, I find the dual time feature genuinely useful. Setting the GMT time on the upper sub-dial is straightforward: turning the crown clockwise adjusts both sets of hands together, while turning it counterclockwise adjusts only the local time. The date is quick-set in the first crown position, making it convenient to keep everything in sync.
Overall, I’m enamored with the Brillier GMT Dual Time’s vintage-inspired aesthetic, the compact but solid feel, and the rare dual-register GMT complication. If you’re drawn to custom or obscure movements and want something that stands out from mainstream GMTs, this watch is definitely worth a closer look.